The zip through hoodie has a credibility problem and most of it is deserved. Cheap ones pill after three washes, sit boxy in all the wrong places, and cheapen everything around them. But a well made zip through is one of the more useful pieces a man can own. It works over a tee on a Sunday, under a wool overcoat in the city, and as a genuine alternative to a casual blazer when the fabric and the fit are right. We’ve been looking specifically at options where the weight of the cotton or French terry actually holds its structure, where the zip hardware doesn’t feel like an afterthought, and where the collar sits flat rather than bunching around the neck. Color matters here too. Navy, slate, and washed olive age better than the obvious grey. These are the zip throughs that don’t announce themselves as a compromise. They just work, and keep working.

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