The varsity jacket has spent a long time being done badly. Thin synthetic wool that pills after a season, leather sleeves that crack inside a year, proportions that look borrowed from a teenager’s closet. When it’s done right though, it’s one of the more interesting pieces a grown man can wear. The weight of the wool body tells you everything immediately. It should feel substantial in your hand before you even put it on.

What we’ve been looking for specifically are jackets where the wool blend is dense enough to actually insulate, the sleeve leather is full grain rather than bonded, and the rib trim sits cleanly without stretching out of shape. These are pieces that work with dark denim and a clean sneaker, or thrown over chinos when you want something with a bit more character than a standard overshirt.

The varsity jacket’s reputation got damaged by cheap versions. These are the ones that repair it.